Located amidst the scenic seascape of the Cat Ba archipelago, Hoang Chau commune, Cat Hai district, Hai Phong city is not only famous for its traditional fishing villages and pristine beaches, but also for hosting one of the most distinctive traditional festivals of Vietnam’s northern coastal region: the Xa Mã Festival – Palanquin Procession at Hoang Chau Communal House. This festival, celebrated annually from the 9th to 12th day of the 6th lunar month, is a vibrant cultural and spiritual event that draws locals and visitors alike.
Hoang Chau Communal House – A Time-Honored Spiritual Landmark
According to local elders, Hoang Chau Communal House was built about 300 years ago and is dedicated to Holy Mother Lieu Hanh, one of the Four Immortals in Vietnamese folk religion. The communal house serves as a sacred cultural center and a symbol of unity for the local island community.
To honor the merits of Holy Mother and ancestral heroes, the people of Hoang Chau hold the Xa Mã Festival and Palanquin Procession each year to express gratitude and pray for national peace, favorable weather, bountiful harvests, and abundant fishing.
Xa Mã – A Vibrant Folk Performance Rooted in History
The centerpiece of the festival is the Xa Mã competition, also known as the wooden horse cart race, a folk performance that recreates scenes of military training and drills from ancient times. It highlights the martial spirit and collective strength of coastal communities.
The race features two teams, traditionally from the Eastern and Western hamlets, with each team comprising 12 to 15 participants in traditional attire: long tunics, headscarves, and leg wraps. Each "Xa Mã" is a sturdy wooden cart with four wheels, carrying a beautifully decorated wooden warhorse adorned with reins, floral chest ornaments, and a bell around its neck.
The race takes place in the communal yard, where the two Xa Mã carts move in opposite directions in circular paths. To win, a team must complete three full laps without crossing the boundary lines or causing damage to their cart or opponents. The victorious team receives a ceremonial gift from the communal house, symbolizing blessings for the coming year.
The Palanquin Procession – A Sacred Ritual of Devotion
Equally significant is the palanquin procession, a deeply spiritual ritual involving the carrying of the statue of Holy Mother Lieu Hanh. The palanquin is ornately decorated and carried by carefully chosen male and female attendants, who must be unmarried and come from families not in mourning.
In a climactic moment of the festival, the palanquin and its bearers suddenly accelerate around the courtyard and through the village, as if possessed by divine energy. This moment is believed to symbolize the goddess herself appearing to bless her people. It is an emotional and sacred experience, embodying the connection between the divine and the earthly.
A Celebration of Community Spirit
Beyond the key rituals, the festival features many other engaging activities, including the Water Fetching Ceremony, Costume Ceremony (dressing the statue), and Ancestral Worship Ceremony. There are also traditional games like cockfighting and Chinese chess, while the evenings come alive with folk singing performances such as Quan họ (love duet) and Chèo (traditional opera).
The festival serves as a time for reunion, celebration, and spiritual reflection. It also provides a space for younger generations to connect with their cultural heritage and appreciate the values passed down from their ancestors.
A Recognized Cultural Heritage
Thanks to its rich historical, cultural, and artistic values, the Xa Mã Festival – Palanquin Procession at Hoang Chau Communal House was officially recognized as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage by Vietnam’s Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism in 2017. This designation affirms the importance of preserving and promoting the festival as a vital part of the nation’s cultural identity.
For centuries, the Xa Mã Festival has been more than just a joyful event; it has been a “living stage” where folk traditions are brought to life and celebrated. Amidst the waves and wind of the sea, this festival reflects the spirit of resilience, faith, and cultural pride of the people of Hoang Chau. In today’s rapidly changing world, maintaining and passing on such traditions is a powerful testament to the love for heritage and the enduring soul of Vietnamese coastal communities.